Frequently Asked Questions
Why do I still have bed bugs?
I just recently bought a new mattress from Sleepy's about 4 months ago and I was wondering why my arm was suddenly itching till I happen to look at a little bed bug that was crawling right beside me.
I guess it explains why I would have bumps on my face.
What do I do? I have had a problem with bed bugs before but I thought I got rid of the problem. I bleached my floors, my room is cleaned. Got a brand new bed set and I am still having these bed bugs problems. I'm actually scared to even sleep in my own bed now without thinking something is crawling on me.
It seems as if my room is the only problem with the bed bugs. I'm trying to get my mom to call the exterminators but she's being stubborn about it.
I guess these bed bugs are some how crawled up the railing of my bed and are onto my mattress. I hope not
Google Bed Sized Bed Bug Trap for how to use special sticky tape to keep top of bed, tables, chairs, sofas, and your body bed bugs free forever. Sleep in the center of bed sized trap, exhale CO2 as bait, trap or starve bed bugs behind wall, under carpet, and inside mattress.
To confirm that you can stop bites at night forever, sleep in a bathtub as the first night of no more bites and then compare the function between bathtub and bed sized trap. To confirm that you can stop bites at day time forever, ask any exterminators why they never get bites. To confirm that exterminators never had a chance to stop bites so easily, buy the strongest double sided tape from a store and let an ant crawl on it. To confirm that bed bugs starve in a few of weeks instead of one year, catch bed bugs into a glass jar and leave it in a bedroom instead of refrigerator.
Mattress encasement does not make sense because only people not mattress need protection. Steamer is a poor method because a bed bug behind wall lays up to 300 eggs after meals. It is nonsense to use chemical because it is less powerful than steamer. It is nonsense to use DE powder because bed bugs bite and lay eggs before they die. It is nonsense to use bug bomb because it does not kill any bed bugs in a glass jar without cap. It is nonsense to use CO2 trap alone because most bugs bite people and lay eggs fast. It is nonsense to work very hard to kill bed bugs at day time, feed bed bugs at night, and let they lay eggs fast. You should have solved problem now if you received right tool today. That is the efficiency of Bed Sized Bed Bug Trap .
How long does it take for an Ivermectin shot for rats to take effect?
So, long story short, my two female rats have mites and have just been treated this afternoon. How long will it take until the mites are gone? (Btw, they are coming back for another shot in 2 weeks.)
The Ivermectin starts to kill the adult mites right away. You must treat the rats again once the nits/eggs develop into adults. The following two links explain:
"On the average the entire life cycle of the mite beginning with the eggs which hatch in about seven days through the larval, nymphal, and adult stages requires approximately 23 days to complete. It is therefore important to maintain care and follow through with treatment(s) prescribed."
"The life cycles of external parasites are fairly simple as compared to internal parasites. In order to rid your pets of external parasites you need to understand their life cycles. The adults are easily killed, but the eggs are left behind and will hatch after the first treatment. Mites are arachnids, so they have eight legs. In the mite, life cycle stage one is the egg, or nit, which hatches to stage two, the six-legged nymph (larvae). In stage three, they molt into the eight-legged nymph, and then into the final stage, the adult. It may take only a week for the mites to complete the life cycle.You have to hit them when in the nymph or adult stage of life. This is why it s so important to disinfect your cage at least once a week, and, anything in it, as well as treat your pets more than one time to kill all the parasites. Disinfecting with bleach is the fastest and easiest way to kill any type of microorganisms in the cage, including bacteria, virus, or fungi. Throw away anything made of wood as the eggs or nits may be hidden in it, and wood is not easily disinfected."
If you use bleach to disinfect as suggested, it must be diluted. Use 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely. As mentioned, toss all wood products as nits/eggs are laid in he wood. I lost some really good hide-away homes and toys when my mice had mites, but better that than risk reinfecting them. Also, since bedding is often the source of the infestation, it is suggested you either bake or freeze it to kill any existing parasites. Following are instructions on how to safely do this:
I am sorry your rats have this problem. It is awful for everyone.
If i have mites in my hermit crab tank, what do i clean it with? Soap and chemicals i heard will hurt them.?
I had a mite breakout over my crabs and tank, i have 3 hermit crabs. Herman, Crabby, Crusty. Help please.
Keeping Mites Away From Your Crabs and Tank
Your hermit crab tank is an ideal place for mites to infest because it is dark, warm, and humid and it has food, water, and animals inside of it. Regular cleaning of the tank, bathing of your hemit crabs, keeping the bedding substrate dry, changing food and water regularly, keeping things that attract bugs out of the tank (like cardboard, strong smelling foods, and stuff from outside in nature which may already have bugs on it), and keeping the area around the tank clean and dustless (don't grow plants around the tank, mites are attracted to plants).
Getting Rid of Mites In Your Tank
You must empty your whole tank and either replace or clean and disinfect (by boiling and baking) your substrate. Also boil and/or bake and/or replace anything else in the cage (except your hermit crabs of course and don't boil sponges, nuke 'em in microwave). Clean the tank very well with vinegar and water squishing any bugs you see with the paper towel pressed firmly against the tank (especially in the corners where they hide) and rinsing the tank out very good. Leave everything in the sun for awhile (except your hermit crabs), because mites hate sunlight and will most likely leave the tank if their still in there. Leave the tank upside down in the sun so the mites can easily run off.
Getting Rid of Mites On Hermit Crabs
The only way to do this is by repeatedly (about 1 or 2 times a day) bathing them in Stresscoat laced water really well. Dechloronated water will work too but you're better off with stresscoat laced. Turn the crab upside down and get ALL the air bubbles out. Then pour the water off the crab. The mites will float to the top of the water and drain out with it. Remove all of the mites from the water by pouring them out, and repeat bathing them. Drain them down the sink, not in the garbage, and rinse out the sink and it's pipes very good afterwards with hot water and soap. Pour the water out before taking your crabs out so that any mites floating on the top don't latch back on to your crabs. Do this a few times until you are sure ALL of the mites are off the crab and out of the shell. You can leave the crab under water for a minute or so, it won't drown and the mites might release themselves. Just be careful and don't leave it under water for several minutes or it will probably drown. You can also use a paper towel and gently squish the bugs on the crab, do this gently though so you don't hurt the crabs or stress them any further.
How NOT To Get Rid of Mites
Sharks unlimited gives advice to bathe the in a Clorox bleach solution. Don't do this, it will hurt your crabs and won't solve the mites problem. Clorox bleach has an extremely high amount of chlorine in it which will blister gills (check water section) and it as other chemicals in it. Also, don't use any mite or bug sprays, hermit crabs are related to spiders and insects. Mite spray will hurt or kill the hermit crabs too.
Keeping Mites From Returning
You may want to only feed your crabs dry food for awhile because strong smelling foods or fresh foods may bring the mites back. Replace the food and water every day. Pay extra attention to keeping the bedding substrate clean by scooping out any poop or buried food and nuke the natural sponges regularly in the microwave.
Extra Info from a Post by Chestersmom
Mites have a fast reproductive cycle...midges (their babies) hatch and become mites within 3 days...you need to bathe your infected crabs twice a day with a combination of ocean salt water (twice the normal ratio you use for drinking), and then in dechlorinated water with 1 TBSP of stresscoat to 1/4 cup of water... the time you keep them in each solution should be at least 3 minutes, sometimes shorter if they come out of their shell and thus allowing you to flush the water throughout their shell; if they stay retracted, put them upside down (opening up) so water will seep into shell...it is really important that the solution gets into the shell, but if the crab is stuborn or frightened, just note which crab, and try again next time...the salt makes the mites release as they try to avoid salt, and the stress coat has an oily coating which suffocates them.
You need to do this for 3 consecutive days...also, once they have been bathed, give the crabs an opportunity to come out of their shell and see if you can see any mites...these you can try to remove with a q-tip...cleaning your tank is good, but if your crabs still have mites on them, it will end up infested again...I would keep them in a seperate tank from the main one...limit what is in there to things that are not organic (use resin or plastic) Once you have completed the 3 day regiment, observe your crabs closely for at least 3 more days...
If there are no mites present after giving them a regular bath, then all should be okay to return them to the main tank...if there are more mites present, then you will have to repeat the process...It can be hard on the crabs, but it depends on what state of health they are in. You have to use your discretion, as you know your crabs best.
I have successfully kept fresh water fish for years and now I am branching out into salt water.?
I recently purchase some coral (about 20 lbs)...bleached white and clean....can I safely use this is in reef tank with live rocks. Or will the coral be too sharp for the fish..or contribute too much calcium into the water? I imagine that the live rock organisms will take over some of the coral..or at least algae will grow there. This is for about 110 gallon tank ...any help? the intial fish for cycling will be either a few bluegreen chromis or blue damsels.
Glad to hear you are going to salt! I am assuming your tank is up and running? Remember salt isn't fresh and your cycle period will be 6 weeks, Live rocks or not. Yes you can use your bleached coral with no problems in your tank. Remember it still needs cleaned and rinsed before putting it into your tank. Coralline algae will grow on this coral. It will add a small amount of calcium to your tank, but your live rock and fish will make quick use of it. Unless you are adding a calcium supplement, salt tanks with shells and dead corals benefit from this little extra calcium. No it isn't too sharp for your fish.
More about life rocks:
Tank maturity seems to be even more of an issue without the sand bed. The sand bed just takes some time to get enough nutrients in it to sustain populations and stratify into somewhat stable communities and become functional. So, here's the tank reason, and then I'll blow into some ecology for you. When you get a tank, you start with no populations of anything. You get live rock to form the basis of the biodiversity - and remember that virtually everything is moderated by bacteria and photosynthesis in our tanks. So liverock is the substrate for all these processes, and also has a lot of life on it. How much depends on a lot of things.
Mostly, marine animals and plants don t like to be out of water for a day at a time...much less the many days to sometimes a week that often happens. So, assuming you are not using existing rock from a tank, or the well-treated aquacultured stuff, you have live rock that is either relatively free of anything alive to begin with, or you have live rock with a few stragglers and a whole lot of stuff dying or about to die because it won t survive in the tank. Some, if not most, rock exporters have a curing process that gets rid of a lot of the life to begin with and some of this is to keep it from dying and fouling further, but some of it would have lived if treated more carefully.
From the moment you start, you are in the negative. Corallines will be dying, sponges, dead worms and crustaceans and echinoids and bivalves, many of which are in the rock and you won't ever see. Not to mention the algae, cyanobacteria, and bacteria, most of which is dehydrated, dead or dying, and will decompose. This is where the existing bacteria get kick started. Bacteria grow really fast, and so they are able to grow to levels that are capable of uptaking nitrogen within...well, the cycling time of a few weeks to a month or so. The starter bacteria products give me a chuckle. Anyone with a passing knowledge of microbiology would realize that for a product to contain live bacteria in a medium that sustains it would quickly turn into a nearly solid mass of bacteria, and if the medium is such that it keeps them inactive, then the amount of bacteria in a bottle is like adding a grain of salt to the ocean compared to what is going to happen quickly in a tank with live rock in it.
However, if you realize the doubling time of these bugs, you would know that in a month, you should have a tank packed full of bacteria and no room for water. That means something is killing or eating bacteria. Also realize that if you have a tank with constant decomposition happening at a rate high enough to spike ammonia off the scale, you have a lot of bacteria food...way more than you will when things stop dying off and decomposing. So, bacterial growth may have caught up with the level of nitrogen being produced, but things are still dying...you just test zero for ammonia because there are enough bacteria present to keep up with the nitrogen being released by the dying stuff. It does not necessarily mean things are finished decomposing or that ammonia is not being produced.
Now, if things are decomposing, they are releasing more than ammonia. Guess what dead sponges release? All their toxic metabolites. Guess what else? All their natural antibiotic compounds which prevents some microbes from doing very well. Same with the algae, the inverts, the cyano, the dinoflagellates, etc. They all produce things that can be toxic and sometimes toxic to things we want, and sometimes to things we don t want. So, let's just figure this death and decomposition is going take a while.
OK, so now we have a tank packed with some kinds of bacteria, probably not much of others. Eventually the death stops. Now, what happens to all that biomass of bacteria without a food source? They die. Some continue on at an equilibrium level with the amount of nutrients available. And, denitrification is a slow process. Guess what else? Bacteria also have antibiotics, toxins, etc. all released when they die. But, the die-off is slow, relative to the loss of nutrients, and there is already a huge population, and yet you never test ammonia. "The water tests fine. But, all these swings are happening. Swings of death, followed by growth until limited, then death again, then nutrients available for growth, and then limitation and death. But, every time, they get less and less, but they keep happening even in mature tanks. Eventually, they slow and stabilize.
What's left? A tank with limited denitrification (because its slow and aerobic things happen fast) and a whole lot of other stuff in the water. Who comes to the rescue and thrives during these cycles? The next fastest growing groups...cyanobacteria, single celled algae, protists, ciliates, etc. Then they do their little cycle thing. And then the turf algae take advantage of the nutrients (the hair algae stage). Turfs get mowed down by all the little amphipods that are suddenly springing up because they have a food source. Maybe you've bought some snails by now, too, or a fish. And the fish dies, of course, because it may not have ammonia to contend with, but has water filled with things we can't and don't test for...plus, beginning aquarists usually skimp on lights and pumps initially, and haven't figured out that alkalinity test, so pH and O2 are probably swinging wildly at this point.
So, the algae successions kick in, and eventually you have a good algal biomass that handles nitrogen, produces oxygen through photosynthesis, takes up the metabolic CO2 of all the other heterotrophs you can t see, the bacteria have long settled in and also deal with nutrients, and the aquarium keeper has probably stopped adding fish for a spell because they keep dying. Maybe they started to visit boards and read books and get the knack of the tank a bit. They have probably also added a bunch of fix-it-quick chemicals that didn t help any, either. Also, they are probably scared to add corals that would actually help with the photosynthesis and nutrient uptake, or they have packed in corals that aren't tolerant of those conditions.
About a year into it, the sand bed is productive and has stratified, water quality is stable, and the aquarist has bought a few more powerheads, understands water quality a bit, corallines and algae, if not corals and other things are photosynthesizing well, and the tank is "mature." That's when fish stop dying when you buy them (at least the cyanide free ones) and corals start to live and grow and I stop getting posts about "I just bought a coral and its dying and my tank is two months old" and they start actually answering some questions here and there instead of just asking questions (though we should all always be asking questions, if not only to ourselves!).
So, ecologically, this is successional population dynamics. Its normal, and it happens when there is a hurricane or a fire, or whatever. In nature though, you have pioneer species that are eventually replaced by climax communities. We usually try and stock immediately with climax species. And find it doesn't always work.
Now, the "too mature" system is the old tank syndrome. Happens in nature, too. That whole forest fire reinvigorating the system is true. Equally true on coral reefs where the intermediate disturbance hypothesis is the running thought on why coral reefs maintain very high diversity...they are stable, but not too stable, and require storms, but not catastrophic ones....predation, but not a giant blanket of crown of thorns, mass bleaching, or loss of key herbivores.
This goes to show what good approximations these tanks are of mini-ecosystems. Things happen much faster in tanks, but what do you expect given the bioload per unit area. So, our climax community happens in a couple years rather than a couple of centuries. Thing is, I am fully convinced that intermediate tank disturbance would prevent old tank syndrome.
My advice on starting tanks is to plan the habitat you want. Find the animals and corals you like. Learn about the tiny area of the reef you will try and recreate, and do not try to make a whole coral reef in one tank. Then, purchase the equipment required to emulate that environment. Then, add the appropriate types of substrate (sand, rubble, rock, whatever) and wait long after your tank water tests fine before you add fish and corals. First, add herbivores and maintain water quality. Water changes, carbon, skimming, alkalinity, calcium. Keep the water of high quality, even for things you can t test for. Wait a few months and enjoy the growth that will happen. Then, add some of the species that you plan to keep .invertebrates and corals. They help create the environment, and also photosynthesize, add biodiversity, stabilize nutrients, etc. Then .then .add fish. The fish will have a reef as their new home. They won t be stressed by this variable bouilllabaise of water and a strange habitat that keeps changing as things are added or die. They will have a stable tank with real habitat, and then the original concept you imagined will have happened.
Instead of using damsels to cycle your tank, since it won't make the cycling process mature any quicker, try tossing in a few pieces of shrimp or raw fish. This works just the same and at not risk of loss of your fish.
If you have any questions regarding your salt tank feel free to email me.
Anything else I can do for bed bugs?
For the past two weeks my fiance has had bites on him, and last night I crushed a little bug in our room and blood splattered everywhere, I knew exactly what it was. I had an exterminator come in first thing in the morning and he analyzed the whole house and said he could only find them in our room so it hasn't gotten bad, so he exterminated our entire room and said he found a total of 15-20, which is bad.. I know how fast these nasty parasites reproduce. I vacuumed my whole house, bagged up EVERYTHING in big plastic garbage bags, bought two mattress covers to suffocate the nasty things, I have a zip of plastic cover for my mattress, and one for my box spring. I bought hot shot flea and bed bug spray, and I literally have washed EVERYTHING I possibly could in scolding hot water with bleach all day long. Tonight we're sleeping on a blow up mattress in the living room while our room is torn apart drying out. I sprinkled a box of borax powder across the door line, I know they can't crawl across that, but I am also aware they prefer to stick to things than migrate. We know exactly where we got the bed bugs from, which was no more than 2 weeks ago.
Will our house survive and did I catch it early enough? I already set up an appointment for the exterminator to return in 2 weeks for a second treatment, he recommends 3 or 4, I'll do whatever it takes, but I will NOT have an infestation of bed bugs.
I have read so many horror stories of people trying to solve it on their own until it gets bad, so I'm hoping I acted early enough and that we can kill it, I know they can lay dormant for up to 18 months in the walls.
I am not sure if you realize that the exterminator can not get rid of bed bugs. A client of mine in January of 2009 had a similar infestation. I suggested at first that she spray her house with Strong Acid Water but she didn't want to relieve that water with a pH of 2.5 would do the trick. So she spent several thousand dollars between exterminating fees and having to replace bedding, mattress, curtains, couches etc. Eventually she decided to give it a try and she hasn't had a bed bug since.
Strong Acid Water with a pH of 2.5 will kill any bacteria within 20-30 seconds of contact including bed bugs, e-coli and salmonella.
The Enagic devise that makes the Strong Acid Water also makes 4 other types of water: water for drinking and cooking, water for personal care, water for taking your medication and water for cleaning and disinfecting
Will a steamer kill black mold?
Like one you use on bed bugs
In a word the answer is no. But we need to look further into it than that. The two things we are talking about are Black Mold and steam.
What is Black Mold?
Black Mold is a fungus that can grow anywhere that is moist and it can grow fast. Once inside, mold can grow almost anywhere moisture accumulates. Wet basements, with or without French Drains and sump pumps, often get mold because of excessive moisture. Unventilated bathrooms are prime candidates for mold. Anywhere in the home that has had a water leak such as the roof and attic are particularly vulnerable to mold growth.
Mold can enter your home through open doorways, windows, vents, heating and air conditioning systems. Or it can be carried from the outside in, by attaching to clothing, shoes, and pets. Once inside, mold can grow almost anywhere moisture accumulates.
Black Mold damages things inside the home such as books, papers, furniture and carpet. But mold can actually damage the home itself, eating away at floors, walls and ceilings.
Mold is a living organism that needs to eat and drink just like us human beings. Mold can get a drink in the form of actual water, moisture, excessive humidity, and yes, even steam.
What is Steam?
Steam is the vapor into which water is converted when heated, forming a white mist of minute water droplets in the air. Steam is a combination of water, vapor and moisture all rolled into one. Steam will provide all the moisture mold needs to grow and thrive.
Here is the third factor to consider:
10% of Mold you see 90% of Mold is Microscopic
90% of the suspended airborne particles are too small to see; yet small enough to be respired (breathed into the lungs) which causes damage and disease. These invisible particles are a serious health risk concern.
So you use your steamer to clean the black mold that you can see which we have said is about 10% of the total. At the same time the steam is providing moisture for the other 90% to grow and multiply.
Stop the Moisture then kill the Mold
You do need to:
A.) Find and fix the source of the mold causing moisture.
B.) Kill the Mold.
Once you have shut off the mold's water supply we can go ahead and remediate/kill it. There is a very simple process I call "The Three S's'.
1st "S" SPRAY the mold to kill it. Don t use bleach because it is toxic for humans as well as mold. Use a mold spray from the store. There are many different brands, Lysol, Tilex, Moldex, Concrobium, etc. They all work pretty much the same.
2nd "S" SCRUB the mold. Once the spray dries up a bit, you want to get a scrubbing sponge and some water mixed with a disinfecting household cleaning liquid soap and scrub it away. It is already dead, you just want to remove any sight of it. Let it dry thoroughly before proceeding to the third "S".
3rd "S" SEAL it. Next you want to get a can of Spray sealer like Kilz or Zinnser and spray the wall that you just scrubbed. What you are doing now is encapsulating the mold. You are sealing it inside the drywall. Now all that is there is a nice, clean, white, sealed paintable surface.
How fast can bed bugs spread?
I brought in a barely used couch 3 weeks ago and just found yesterday it has bed bugs. I fell asleep on the couch 2 or 3 times and got bit pretty bad but didn't realize it was from bedbugs until yesterday. We removed the couch and put it in the garage, vacuumed it with a shop vac a couple of times, then sprayed the van out with bleach (I have no intention on keeping this couch now, just trying to stop the bugs from spreading until I can get rid of it). I have checked the mattresses in the house, and area the couch was in and all the pillows and haven't seen anymore. I know they are small and I don't have a trained eye to notice them as well as an expert which is why I have an exterminator coming early next week (it was the soonest they could come). Given that the couch was there for 3 weeks and I can't see any other bedbugs, how likely is it that they are gone? I am asking because I hardly slept last night and I feel little bugs crawling all over my constantly. It's in my head I know but I will sleep much better at night knowing they are probably not getting transferred all over my house. I am washing the throw blankets that were up there and I the pillows look good but are getting washed anyways as well.
Leave it in the garage for the time being. Buy some food grade diatomaceous earth. It is a white powder that will kill the bedbugs. It dehydrates them. It is a sold online and many home improvement store. Spread it all over the sofa and vacuum after about 24 hours. Repeat the process if necessary. Here is a step by step on killing bed bugs.
Is there ANY way to rid the pest known as bed bugs and what can I do if my landlord does nothing about them?
I just moved in an apartment about two month ago. A month after I moved in my boyfriend kept complaining about bits on him. I ignore him and told him he was nuts nothing was biting him until one day he walked in the room and picked up this reddish brown bug and said, "Oh, nothing biting me." I quickly hoped up from where I was lying only to be terrified by the bug crawling under my ear. After doing further research, I knew they were bed bugs for sure. I read somewhere that a lady said she bleached her whole apartment and they never came back. From what I read, the creatures harass you and cause you stress. I know from personal experience. I do have clutter in my apartment, but I clean it, also. It's not in the best building for the money I paid and the landlord hardly fixes anything. What actions can I take to get rid of these creatures or at least keep them out of sight and off our bodies. Also, who can I call on my landlord if she and her company don't do anything about these creatures?
Don't follow experts' suggestion to wash, vacuum, and spray chemical everything everywhere everyday.
Bed bugs only suck blood as food. Each one may reproduce 1,000 offspring before it dies. They may hide behind wall and under carpet. If a chemical method only kills 99% of bed bugs on contact, the fight with bed bugs will never end.
I solved bed bug problem after 3 hours of easy job because I did not receive any bed bug bite and did not perform extra daily effort after I built sticky barriers to protect top of bed, ceiling above the bed, tables, chairs, clothes, and shoes as shown in the video and attached text. To find how long bed bugs can live without food. I caught bed bugs into a glass bottle. All of the bugs in the bottle died within 3 months. Don t be misled that bed bugs may live for one year without blood food. Room temperatures and actively crawling for seeking food attracted by smell of sleeping people should quickly consume their energy to reduce their life without food. The method never fails because it is not important what percent of bed bugs will be trapped. Even every bed bug is very smart and will not touch the sticky tape; you have solved the problem after 3 hours of easy job.
Why do experts never think about the sticky barrier method? The special sticky tape and bed sized trap are patent pending and bed bugs can crawl on many well known double sided sticky tapes, so that experts never had a chance to try. Only the barrier method and heating entire house method can stop bed bug bites immediately, but the efficiency of the first method is much higher than the second method based on the cost and result. If bed bugs can crawl from your neighbors, the heating method fails; but it does not change the conclusion of No More Bed Bug Bites after 3 hrs of Easy Effort by the sticky barrier method. Many people have confirmed that barrier method works by sleeping in a bathtub which is too slippery to crawl.
Most people believe that buying mattress encasement is essential because chemical can t reach inside of mattress. It is no longer right. As shown in the video, the bed sized trap seals all of bed bugs in a bedroom instead of sealing mattress only.
Tent and window screen are the best to fight with mosquitoes. Bed bugs can t fly or jump, the patent pending sticky tape is the best to solve the bed bug problem immediately. Don t waste your time to wash, vacuum, and spray everywhere everyday and let bed bugs lay eggs faster than the killing speed. All of the chemical or spray methods are as stupid as a mosquito method which opens windows, let mosquitoes fly in, and sprays chemicals daily while a closing window option is available.
The video and attached texts describe the method.